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This page is full of information collected to help you
care for your new dog. Follow the page down to find
information about vaccinations, worming, dog food,
and crate training.
Vaccination
Vaccination Checklist
It is recommended that your puppy's first vaccinations be given between six to eight weeks of age and
continue every three to four weeks until they are sixteen to eighteen weeks old. (There may be additional
vaccines recommended for certain breeds or puppies with high risk factors). Your Puppy should receive
three "wormings" (at 3, 5, 7 weeks old) and begin its first vaccinations at 6 weeks.
Types of Vaccines
Rabies Vaccine �
Required by law, rabies is a fatal disease that can be transmitted to humans and has no cure. The
vaccine is given between 12 and 16 weeks of age and then boostered in one year, after which time
additional boosters are given every two years.
Distemper Combination Vaccine-
(Includes Distemper virus, Parvovirus, Corona virus, Adenovirus, and Para influenza virus)
This vaccine should be given every 3-4 weeks, beginning at 6-8 weeks of age and continuing until at least
16 weeks of age.
Lyme Disease-
(Borrelia Burgdorferi)
Vaccine is recommended because ticks carrying the disease. The vaccine is initially given as two doses 3
weeks apart and then boostered yearly. It can be started anytime after a puppy is 12 weeks old.
Bordetella-
(Kennel Cough)
Vaccine is strongly recommended, especially if a puppy will have exposure to many dogs such as at
training classes, shows, or the groomer's.
Your puppy should have limited contact with other animals until he has finished his series of vaccines. Any
animals your puppy will socialize with should be healthy and up to date on their vaccines to reduce his
risk of becoming sick before he is fully vaccinated.
See contact page for health guarantee
Canine Intestinal Worms
and Inexpensive Treatment
Hookworms
There are four species of hookworms that infect dogs (Ancylostoma braziliense, Ancylostoma caninum,
Ancylostoma tubaeforme, and Uncinaria stenocephala). In dogs, A. caninum is the most common
hookworm and causes the worst disease. A. tubaeforme is more common in cats than dogs, and is less
likely to cause severe disease than A. caninum. Dogs in the Northern states and in Canada are more
likely to be infected with U. stenocephala as it prefers cold climates and A. caninum prefers warm
climates.
A. caninum hookworm infestation in dogs can lead to severe anemia, especially in puppies. These
hookworms have big appetites and attach to the intestine and feed on the dog's blood. The other three
types of hookworms are less likely to cause severe anemia but it is a potential problem with them. Signs
of hookworm infection include weight loss, pale color, black or tarry looking stools, weakness, anemia
and death. In areas in which hookworms are prevalent there can be skin disease in pets associated with
exposure to the larval worms as well. The following are a list of clinical signs of hookworm infestation in
canines:
Dose, age, immune status dependent; may be severe and life-threatening
Primarily a disease of puppies, since adult dogs exposed as puppies have a premune status due to
presence of arrested larvae
Dermatitis
Puppy pneumonia
Enteritis, bloody diarrhea, blood loss anemia
Life threatening for pups - may show signs as early as 2 to 3 weeks of age in a peracute case (puppy
crashes without prior signs of disease) or may occur in an acute stage at 3 weeks to weaning where
there are eggs in the feces, bloody stool
Hookworms can be acquired from the mother's milk, from penetration of the skin by hookworm larvae in
the environment and from eating hookworm larvae. Some vets think that it may also be transmitted during
pregnancy from mothers to puppies but this is controversial.
One of the problems with hookworms is that they can accidentally infect humans. This creates a problem
called cutaneous larva migrans, which loosely translates to worms migrating through the skin. Humans
pick up the hookworm larvae from areas contaminated by dog feces and they penetrate the human's skin
just like they would the dog's. Since they don't belong in the human they don't develop into adults but just
migrate around in the skin, causing sores and inflammation, until they die. This is a good reason to keep
dogs and cats from defecating in playground areas, beaches and other places where people's skin is
likely to come in contact with the ground.
Fortunately, the monthly heartworm preventatives are also effective at controlling hookworms and can
provide a measure of protection against the possibility of the cutaneous larva migrans syndrome
occurring in the humans that own dogs and cats on heartworm preventative medications. In areas in
which heartworms are not a problem but hookworms are, it is a good idea to consider having a pet's
stool examined for the presence of worm eggs once a year and when clinical signs that may indicate
infestation occur.
Roundworms
Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonina) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major
hygienic concern because they are transmissible to people. Because people get infected by ingestion of
dirt contaminated with the feces of infected dogs, roundworm elimination should be the concern on every
responsible pet owner. An average-sized dog passes 136 grams of feces daily and it is known that a dog
with a "light" roundworm infection may pass 10,000 eggs in every gram of stool. If 12% of the 80 million
dogs in America have "light" infections, 1,300 metric tons of dog feces containing 13 trillion roundworm
eggs are discharged in the streets and lands of America every day!! In different surveys, 0.3 - 15% of
soil samples and 7 - 31% of house yards or children's sandboxes contained roundworm eggs.
Your plan of attack to eradicate roundworm infection should be: to eliminate roundworm infection from
dogs; to prevent dog defecation in areas frequented by people, and; to educate your family and friends
about the risks and appropriate control measures.
Concerned pet owners should collect their pets' feces every day and place them in the garbage or burn
it. Flushing the feces down the toilet is inappropriate because many eggs survive sewage treatment.
There is some fear that roundworms may be passed by a puppy licking the owner. While the
transmission rate through this avenue of infection is probably very, very low it is still a good idea to
observe good hygiene and wash hands and faces after playing with the puppy. Also, Humans should
clean vegetables grown in the garden before eating them. For most people, these preventative measures
are just normal procedures but it is good to know there is a reason for all this caution!
Because pups may start passing eggs as early as day 21 of life, the first treatment must be administered
before this age. Since reinfection is common from the environment as well as in the mother's milk,
treatment must often be repeated every two weeks until the pups are 49 days old. In practical terms, this
means treating pups at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Bitches should be treated at the same time as the
pups since they are most often the source of the pups infection. All bitches should be presumed to be
carriers of roundworms even if they have had negative fecals prior to whelping since the worms often
persist in her system in a resting stage. The following list discusses how bitches carry roundworms and
infect pups before they are even born:
Roundworm larvae migrate to somatic tissue (liver and lungs), including skeletal muscle and remain there
in a quiescent state
Only resume activity in pregnant bitches following the 42nd day gestation (third trimester)
May establish an infection of the small intestine by tracheal migration
Usually infect the fetus via the umbilical vessels; initially they attack the pups liver, then lungs at birth
This is the primary reason that bitches should be wormed before breeding, during the last week of
gestation, and each time the pups are wormed.
Once the initial infection is treated properly it is a good idea to occasionally check a stool sample for the
presence of worms or to consider prophylactically administering deworming medications if the situation
seems to warrant it. It is hoped that at some point in the future a vaccine will become available for
roundworm control since current control measures seem to be only marginally effective. For the present
however, routine treatment of pups and bitch, as well as environmental control are necessary and
essential.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms (Taenia pisiformis, Dipylidium canium, Enchinococcus granulosus, and Echinococcus
multilocularis) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major hygienic concern because they are
transmissible to people. Dog-rabbit tapeworms (T. pisiformis) have a life cycle that starts with them living
in the small intestines of wild foxes, coyotes, and wolves where they produce eggs that are shed in the
feces and subsequently contaminate the local environment. Rabbits then become infected by ingesting
these eggs which then form hundreds or even thousands of "hydatid cysts" in the tissues. When dogs or
their wild cousins eat these rabbits they can be infected with hundreds to thousands of adults. These
adults latch onto the wall of the intestines and after about a month, start shedding eggs. These eggs are
then immediately infective to other animals, including people. To complicate matters further, these
tapeworm eggs can remain infective in the environment for several months.
Infected dogs may seem clinically normal while shedding large numbers of infective eggs. The eggs are
generally first seen in your dog's feces or sticking to the hair around your dog's rear. These specialized
muscular egg cases are actually segments of the worm that are full of eggs and they look like a small,
flattened, grain of white rice that moves. As the egg case wiggles around it is spreading thousands of
tapeworm eggs which are too small for the naked-eye to see.
Adult tapeworms appear to cause very few clinical problems in dogs. However, this is the real point of
concern since infected people are not as lucky. Alveolar hydatid disease in humans, caused by
Echinococcus multilocularis, is a very serious infection that usually involves the liver. Early in the course of
the infection, patients may be misdiagnosed with other liver ailments. Involvement of other tissues,
including the lungs and brain can also occur. Since over 50% of people with alveolar hydatid disease die,
this is considered the most lethal worm infection that people get. It is therefore important for all dogs and
cats in high-risk areas be screened for tapeworm infection. This is more difficult than it sounds since
infection with Echinococcus eggs can not be readily differentiated from the more common tapeworms
which do not affect people. Veterinarians finding tapeworm eggs on fecal exams usually closely examine
pets for the rice-like grains known as proglottids which are found with common tapeworms but not the
lethal variety. Occasionally more dramatic methods are necessary to try to recover worms from suspect
pets. A more convenient blood test is available to diagnose infection in people and hopefully similar tests
will soon become suitable for pets.
The best defense is increased public awareness of this condition. Personal protection and hygiene are
important, especially to those individuals that may contact feces from potentially-infected pets. Children
are particularly at risk. Mulch that contains feces from dogs, cats, wolves or foxes should not be used on
gardens. Beagles should be discouraged from consuming rabbits or any other type of wild rodent.
Fortunately for pets, there are medicines that are safe and very effective for treatment. People are not
as lucky and surgery still remains the preferred treatment.
In conclusion, Echinococcus multilocularis, may cause a mild problem in pets but if people get infected,
the results can be fatal. In order to minimize the risk of human infection the public must increase its
awareness of the potential complications that are associated with the parasites.
Whipworms
Surveys consistently identify whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) as one of the most common parasitic worms of
dogs in North America, while only infrequently being reported in cats or humans. They live in the lower
aspects of the intestines (the cecum and colon) where they latch on to feed. Sometimes they cause no
problems at all but they may cause abdominal upset (colic) or diarrhea, often tainted by blood and
mucus. When eggs are laid in the intestines, they pass into the feces and become infective within 9-10
days. When consumed by dogs the infective eggs hatch in the intestines and the larvae parasitize the
intestines and matures further.
Many people do not realize that dogs do not begin to shed whipworm eggs in their stool until about 3
months after being infected. At that time each female whipworm may pass from 1000 to 4000 eggs per
day into the stool. Complicating matters further are that female whipworms are long-lived, surviving for
months or years in the intestines. The life cycle therefore includes a larval stage in the small intestine, an
adult stage in the large intestine, and infective eggs that pass into the feces.
Diagnosis is not always easy since it depends on finding whipworm eggs in the feces. Remember that
animals are infected for 3 months before they begin to shed eggs and you can appreciate the problem.
Once females begin shedding eggs, they are usually recoverable by direct smears and centrifugal
flotation. They are not as easily found with standard fecal evaluations. In some instances, the adult
worms are actually seen attached to the lower bowel during endoscopic procedures.
Treatment is also not straightforward because of the peculiar life cycle of this parasite. Although many
medicines are effective in removing adult worms, the larvae are less reliably cleared. Therefore
treatment must often be repeated in 3 weeks and often, in 3 months as well, when the larvae have
evolved into egg-producing adults. The biggest hindrance to effective treatment is that animals are often
re-exposed to environments in which whipworm eggs are plentiful, and are thereby re-infected.
It can be difficult to control exposure to whipworm eggs on lawns or soil but concrete can be effectively
disinfected. Proper disposal of egg-containing dog feces is critical.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inexpensive Treatment
The cost to effectively keep worm infestations out of your dogs may be entirely too much if you take the
dog to a Veterinarian. A Vet will use a multitude of expensive dewormers. The cost for the Veterinarian
treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to a lot of money per year. Once again, I
want to remind everyone that I am not a Veterinarian, but rather a long time Beagle kennel owner. I'll tell
you what I use and do, you can use your own judgment whether you want to follow in my footsteps. This
article is presented only as a documentation of how I treat canine intestinal worm infestations in the
Beagles that I own at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the expensive worming
tests and deworming treatments.
The easiest and most inexpensive, all-around, deworming treatment available is Fenbendazole (Safe-
Guard). It is virtually 100% effective against all four types of canine intestinal worms. If you buy
deworming medications that are made and packaged specifically for dogs, you will be paying a fortune
for them. After reading this article and seeing how often you need to treat your Beagle(s) for worms, I
think you may want to follow my lead.
Safe-Guard 10% Suspension (Fenbendazole)
Instead of buying and using only dog/puppy dewormers, I use the Safe-Guard 10% suspension
horse/cattle dewormer. I use this for all Beagles that are at least 2 weeks old. This liquid dewormer
comes in a 1000 ml bottle and contains 100 mg per ml of the active ingredient which is Fenbendazole.
This is much cheaper to buy on a yearly basis than any other deworming product. You can purchase this
huge bottle for only $104.95 (accurate price as of 04/20/2008) from Lambert Vet Supply by simply
clicking on the photo to the left of this paragraph. It is about 100 times cheaper than any other dog/puppy
dewormers made. Also, please note that several of the commercial dog/puppy dewormers are only
effective against two or three of the different types of canine intestinal worms; therefore, you would be
forced to buy two or three different kinds of dewormers, yet the Safe-Guard 10% suspension
horse/cattle dewormer is effective against all four types. (NOTE: Lambert Vet Supply is not a sponsor of
BEAGLES UNLIMITED and we do not make a cent by referring them to you. They do have the absolute
lowest prices available to help all of us keep our Beagles in great health while we save hundreds of
dollars each and every year. Just think about it, no need to buy the very expensive, canine dewormers to
proactively keep worms out of all your Beagles.
The recommended dosage of this exact product and strength is 1 ml (which contains 100 mg active
ingredient) per 5 lbs of Beagle bodyweight. For example, a 25 lb Beagle would receive 5 ml per day for a
3 day period (total 3-day treatment consists of 15 ml). With a 1000 ml bottle you have enough dewormer
to treat a kennel full of Beagles on a bi-monthly treatment program for a very long time. For example, this
one bottle of dewormer will treat sixty-six (66) Beagles ( avg. 25lb dogs) for a full three-day treatment.
As long as all pups are eating and equally active, I deworm each litter at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks. Adult
dogs are proactively treated for worms on the fifteenth of every other month. Fenbendazole is always
administered for 3-consecutive days rather than only one day, to be sure your puppies and dogs are
100% worm-free. The reason I deworm on the 15th of every other month is because I do a heartworm
preventative treatment on the 1st of every month. This way the two medicines are not given at the same
time.
Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard or Panacur) is one of the safest dewormers on the market. Fasting is not
required and it is safe during pregnancy and lactation. This is a list of the attributes of the Benzimidazole
(BZD) type dewormers such as Fenbendazole:
Actions: the antiparasitic action of Fenbendazole paste 10% is believed to be due to the inhibition of
energy metabolism in the parasite
Contraindications: no known contraindications observed, even when administered to young, sick, or
debilitated animals
Very wide margin of safety with regards to dose
If you have a kennel of dogs, then buying the Safe-Guard 10% suspension horse/cattle dewormer will
definitely save you a lot of money each year. This deworming treatment will stay effective for up to three
(3) years if kept refrigerated once opened. Don't wait until you see worms in your dog's feces before
treating them, but rather be proactive in deworming your dogs. You should deworm bitches before
breeding, during the last week of pregnancy, and each time you deworm your pups. Treat pups with the
appropriate dewormers described above at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Also, treat all of your Beagles
every other month. An example of a recommended deworming program is as follows: December 15th -
17th, February 15th - 17th, April 15th - 17th, June 15th - 17th, August 15th - 17th, and October 15th -
17th. Once again, the reason I deworm on the 15th through the 17th of every other month is because I
treat the dogs with Ivomec as a heartworm preventative on the 1st of every month. Also, don't forget that
this deworming treatment with Fenbendazole every other month has the added benefit of ridding and
preventing giardiasis in all of your hounds.
If you follow this deworming treatment schedule you will see a significant improvement in your dog's
appearance because you will be ridding your hound(s) of intestinal worms before any damage is done.
Remember, always keep your kennel(s) disinfected and your backyard clean of feces. Dispose of your
dog's feces as often as possible -- preferably daily. You will be happy because your hound(s) body and
your family's living environment will be worm-free.
What kind of dog food?
Please feed your puppy a high quality food.
How to grade your dog’s food:
Start with a grade of 100:
1) For every listing of “by-product”, subtract 10 points
2) For every non-specific animal source (”meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10
points
3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4) For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown
rice”, “brewerâs rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients,
subtract 3 points
7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points
9) If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources),
subtract 2 points
12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isnât allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isnât allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
Extra Credit:
1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points
3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points
7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points
8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points
9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points
10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and
“chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “” as 2 different sources), add 1 point
13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point
94-100+ = A 86-93 = B 78-85 = C 70-77 = D <70 = F
Dog Food scores:
Alpo Prime Cuts / Score 81 C
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy / Score 114 A+
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active / Score 93 B
Beowulf Back to Basics / Score 101 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice / Score 83 C
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice / Score 106 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice / Score 107 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Diamond Performance / Score 85 C
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Van Patten?s Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice / Score 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
EaglePack Holistic / Score 102 A+
Eukanuba Adult / Score 81 C
Eukanuba Puppy / Score 79 C
Flint River Senior / Score 101 A+
Foundations / Score 106 A+
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 B
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy / Score 122 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+
Member?s Mark Chicken and Rice / Score 84 C
Merrick Wilderness Blend / Score 127 A+
Merrick HomeStyle Blends / Average Score 125 A+
Merrick Beef N More / Score 125 A+
Nature?s Recipe / Score 100 A
Nature?s Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice / Score 116 A+
Nature?s Variety Raw Instinct / Score 122 A+
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice / Score 81 C
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Puppy / Score 101 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Nutro Max Adult / Score 93 B
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice / Score 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free / Score 86 B
Nutro Natural Choice Senior / Score 95 A
Nutro Ultra Adult / Score 104 A+
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry / Score 109 A+
Pro Nature Puppy / Score 80 C
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach / Score 94 A
Purina Benful / Score 17 F
Purina Dog / Score 62 F
Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy / Score 62 F
Royal Canin Boxer / Score 103 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Solid Gold / Score 99 A
Summit / Score 99 A
Timberwolf Organics Wild & Natural Dry / Score 120 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A
Crate Training
Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train a puppy or dog.
The single most important aspect of dog and puppy training is that you reward and praise your dog or
puppy each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her own
toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with
your puppy or dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her.
The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate
in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the
chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is house
trained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving
piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or
utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their
resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your
dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far
more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released,
i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term
confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to
restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short
term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will
want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also
helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she
learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not
intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her
crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if
not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an
opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take
her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate
within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately
reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and
play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her
toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her
bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a
regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know
what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead
of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one
hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her
from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for
eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount
of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that
you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her
unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate
training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more
time to develop bladder and bowel control.
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care for your new dog. Follow the page down to find
information about vaccinations, worming, dog food,
and crate training.
Vaccination
Vaccination Checklist
It is recommended that your puppy's first vaccinations be given between six to eight weeks of age and
continue every three to four weeks until they are sixteen to eighteen weeks old. (There may be additional
vaccines recommended for certain breeds or puppies with high risk factors). Your Puppy should receive
three "wormings" (at 3, 5, 7 weeks old) and begin its first vaccinations at 6 weeks.
Types of Vaccines
Rabies Vaccine �
Required by law, rabies is a fatal disease that can be transmitted to humans and has no cure. The
vaccine is given between 12 and 16 weeks of age and then boostered in one year, after which time
additional boosters are given every two years.
Distemper Combination Vaccine-
(Includes Distemper virus, Parvovirus, Corona virus, Adenovirus, and Para influenza virus)
This vaccine should be given every 3-4 weeks, beginning at 6-8 weeks of age and continuing until at least
16 weeks of age.
Lyme Disease-
(Borrelia Burgdorferi)
Vaccine is recommended because ticks carrying the disease. The vaccine is initially given as two doses 3
weeks apart and then boostered yearly. It can be started anytime after a puppy is 12 weeks old.
Bordetella-
(Kennel Cough)
Vaccine is strongly recommended, especially if a puppy will have exposure to many dogs such as at
training classes, shows, or the groomer's.
Your puppy should have limited contact with other animals until he has finished his series of vaccines. Any
animals your puppy will socialize with should be healthy and up to date on their vaccines to reduce his
risk of becoming sick before he is fully vaccinated.
See contact page for health guarantee
Canine Intestinal Worms
and Inexpensive Treatment
Hookworms
There are four species of hookworms that infect dogs (Ancylostoma braziliense, Ancylostoma caninum,
Ancylostoma tubaeforme, and Uncinaria stenocephala). In dogs, A. caninum is the most common
hookworm and causes the worst disease. A. tubaeforme is more common in cats than dogs, and is less
likely to cause severe disease than A. caninum. Dogs in the Northern states and in Canada are more
likely to be infected with U. stenocephala as it prefers cold climates and A. caninum prefers warm
climates.
A. caninum hookworm infestation in dogs can lead to severe anemia, especially in puppies. These
hookworms have big appetites and attach to the intestine and feed on the dog's blood. The other three
types of hookworms are less likely to cause severe anemia but it is a potential problem with them. Signs
of hookworm infection include weight loss, pale color, black or tarry looking stools, weakness, anemia
and death. In areas in which hookworms are prevalent there can be skin disease in pets associated with
exposure to the larval worms as well. The following are a list of clinical signs of hookworm infestation in
canines:
Dose, age, immune status dependent; may be severe and life-threatening
Primarily a disease of puppies, since adult dogs exposed as puppies have a premune status due to
presence of arrested larvae
Dermatitis
Puppy pneumonia
Enteritis, bloody diarrhea, blood loss anemia
Life threatening for pups - may show signs as early as 2 to 3 weeks of age in a peracute case (puppy
crashes without prior signs of disease) or may occur in an acute stage at 3 weeks to weaning where
there are eggs in the feces, bloody stool
Hookworms can be acquired from the mother's milk, from penetration of the skin by hookworm larvae in
the environment and from eating hookworm larvae. Some vets think that it may also be transmitted during
pregnancy from mothers to puppies but this is controversial.
One of the problems with hookworms is that they can accidentally infect humans. This creates a problem
called cutaneous larva migrans, which loosely translates to worms migrating through the skin. Humans
pick up the hookworm larvae from areas contaminated by dog feces and they penetrate the human's skin
just like they would the dog's. Since they don't belong in the human they don't develop into adults but just
migrate around in the skin, causing sores and inflammation, until they die. This is a good reason to keep
dogs and cats from defecating in playground areas, beaches and other places where people's skin is
likely to come in contact with the ground.
Fortunately, the monthly heartworm preventatives are also effective at controlling hookworms and can
provide a measure of protection against the possibility of the cutaneous larva migrans syndrome
occurring in the humans that own dogs and cats on heartworm preventative medications. In areas in
which heartworms are not a problem but hookworms are, it is a good idea to consider having a pet's
stool examined for the presence of worm eggs once a year and when clinical signs that may indicate
infestation occur.
Roundworms
Roundworms (Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leonina) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major
hygienic concern because they are transmissible to people. Because people get infected by ingestion of
dirt contaminated with the feces of infected dogs, roundworm elimination should be the concern on every
responsible pet owner. An average-sized dog passes 136 grams of feces daily and it is known that a dog
with a "light" roundworm infection may pass 10,000 eggs in every gram of stool. If 12% of the 80 million
dogs in America have "light" infections, 1,300 metric tons of dog feces containing 13 trillion roundworm
eggs are discharged in the streets and lands of America every day!! In different surveys, 0.3 - 15% of
soil samples and 7 - 31% of house yards or children's sandboxes contained roundworm eggs.
Your plan of attack to eradicate roundworm infection should be: to eliminate roundworm infection from
dogs; to prevent dog defecation in areas frequented by people, and; to educate your family and friends
about the risks and appropriate control measures.
Concerned pet owners should collect their pets' feces every day and place them in the garbage or burn
it. Flushing the feces down the toilet is inappropriate because many eggs survive sewage treatment.
There is some fear that roundworms may be passed by a puppy licking the owner. While the
transmission rate through this avenue of infection is probably very, very low it is still a good idea to
observe good hygiene and wash hands and faces after playing with the puppy. Also, Humans should
clean vegetables grown in the garden before eating them. For most people, these preventative measures
are just normal procedures but it is good to know there is a reason for all this caution!
Because pups may start passing eggs as early as day 21 of life, the first treatment must be administered
before this age. Since reinfection is common from the environment as well as in the mother's milk,
treatment must often be repeated every two weeks until the pups are 49 days old. In practical terms, this
means treating pups at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Bitches should be treated at the same time as the
pups since they are most often the source of the pups infection. All bitches should be presumed to be
carriers of roundworms even if they have had negative fecals prior to whelping since the worms often
persist in her system in a resting stage. The following list discusses how bitches carry roundworms and
infect pups before they are even born:
Roundworm larvae migrate to somatic tissue (liver and lungs), including skeletal muscle and remain there
in a quiescent state
Only resume activity in pregnant bitches following the 42nd day gestation (third trimester)
May establish an infection of the small intestine by tracheal migration
Usually infect the fetus via the umbilical vessels; initially they attack the pups liver, then lungs at birth
This is the primary reason that bitches should be wormed before breeding, during the last week of
gestation, and each time the pups are wormed.
Once the initial infection is treated properly it is a good idea to occasionally check a stool sample for the
presence of worms or to consider prophylactically administering deworming medications if the situation
seems to warrant it. It is hoped that at some point in the future a vaccine will become available for
roundworm control since current control measures seem to be only marginally effective. For the present
however, routine treatment of pups and bitch, as well as environmental control are necessary and
essential.
Tapeworms
Tapeworms (Taenia pisiformis, Dipylidium canium, Enchinococcus granulosus, and Echinococcus
multilocularis) are found in the intestine of dogs and are a major hygienic concern because they are
transmissible to people. Dog-rabbit tapeworms (T. pisiformis) have a life cycle that starts with them living
in the small intestines of wild foxes, coyotes, and wolves where they produce eggs that are shed in the
feces and subsequently contaminate the local environment. Rabbits then become infected by ingesting
these eggs which then form hundreds or even thousands of "hydatid cysts" in the tissues. When dogs or
their wild cousins eat these rabbits they can be infected with hundreds to thousands of adults. These
adults latch onto the wall of the intestines and after about a month, start shedding eggs. These eggs are
then immediately infective to other animals, including people. To complicate matters further, these
tapeworm eggs can remain infective in the environment for several months.
Infected dogs may seem clinically normal while shedding large numbers of infective eggs. The eggs are
generally first seen in your dog's feces or sticking to the hair around your dog's rear. These specialized
muscular egg cases are actually segments of the worm that are full of eggs and they look like a small,
flattened, grain of white rice that moves. As the egg case wiggles around it is spreading thousands of
tapeworm eggs which are too small for the naked-eye to see.
Adult tapeworms appear to cause very few clinical problems in dogs. However, this is the real point of
concern since infected people are not as lucky. Alveolar hydatid disease in humans, caused by
Echinococcus multilocularis, is a very serious infection that usually involves the liver. Early in the course of
the infection, patients may be misdiagnosed with other liver ailments. Involvement of other tissues,
including the lungs and brain can also occur. Since over 50% of people with alveolar hydatid disease die,
this is considered the most lethal worm infection that people get. It is therefore important for all dogs and
cats in high-risk areas be screened for tapeworm infection. This is more difficult than it sounds since
infection with Echinococcus eggs can not be readily differentiated from the more common tapeworms
which do not affect people. Veterinarians finding tapeworm eggs on fecal exams usually closely examine
pets for the rice-like grains known as proglottids which are found with common tapeworms but not the
lethal variety. Occasionally more dramatic methods are necessary to try to recover worms from suspect
pets. A more convenient blood test is available to diagnose infection in people and hopefully similar tests
will soon become suitable for pets.
The best defense is increased public awareness of this condition. Personal protection and hygiene are
important, especially to those individuals that may contact feces from potentially-infected pets. Children
are particularly at risk. Mulch that contains feces from dogs, cats, wolves or foxes should not be used on
gardens. Beagles should be discouraged from consuming rabbits or any other type of wild rodent.
Fortunately for pets, there are medicines that are safe and very effective for treatment. People are not
as lucky and surgery still remains the preferred treatment.
In conclusion, Echinococcus multilocularis, may cause a mild problem in pets but if people get infected,
the results can be fatal. In order to minimize the risk of human infection the public must increase its
awareness of the potential complications that are associated with the parasites.
Whipworms
Surveys consistently identify whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) as one of the most common parasitic worms of
dogs in North America, while only infrequently being reported in cats or humans. They live in the lower
aspects of the intestines (the cecum and colon) where they latch on to feed. Sometimes they cause no
problems at all but they may cause abdominal upset (colic) or diarrhea, often tainted by blood and
mucus. When eggs are laid in the intestines, they pass into the feces and become infective within 9-10
days. When consumed by dogs the infective eggs hatch in the intestines and the larvae parasitize the
intestines and matures further.
Many people do not realize that dogs do not begin to shed whipworm eggs in their stool until about 3
months after being infected. At that time each female whipworm may pass from 1000 to 4000 eggs per
day into the stool. Complicating matters further are that female whipworms are long-lived, surviving for
months or years in the intestines. The life cycle therefore includes a larval stage in the small intestine, an
adult stage in the large intestine, and infective eggs that pass into the feces.
Diagnosis is not always easy since it depends on finding whipworm eggs in the feces. Remember that
animals are infected for 3 months before they begin to shed eggs and you can appreciate the problem.
Once females begin shedding eggs, they are usually recoverable by direct smears and centrifugal
flotation. They are not as easily found with standard fecal evaluations. In some instances, the adult
worms are actually seen attached to the lower bowel during endoscopic procedures.
Treatment is also not straightforward because of the peculiar life cycle of this parasite. Although many
medicines are effective in removing adult worms, the larvae are less reliably cleared. Therefore
treatment must often be repeated in 3 weeks and often, in 3 months as well, when the larvae have
evolved into egg-producing adults. The biggest hindrance to effective treatment is that animals are often
re-exposed to environments in which whipworm eggs are plentiful, and are thereby re-infected.
It can be difficult to control exposure to whipworm eggs on lawns or soil but concrete can be effectively
disinfected. Proper disposal of egg-containing dog feces is critical.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inexpensive Treatment
The cost to effectively keep worm infestations out of your dogs may be entirely too much if you take the
dog to a Veterinarian. A Vet will use a multitude of expensive dewormers. The cost for the Veterinarian
treatments along with the cost of the office visits will add up to a lot of money per year. Once again, I
want to remind everyone that I am not a Veterinarian, but rather a long time Beagle kennel owner. I'll tell
you what I use and do, you can use your own judgment whether you want to follow in my footsteps. This
article is presented only as a documentation of how I treat canine intestinal worm infestations in the
Beagles that I own at a fraction of the cost that a Veterinarian will charge for the expensive worming
tests and deworming treatments.
The easiest and most inexpensive, all-around, deworming treatment available is Fenbendazole (Safe-
Guard). It is virtually 100% effective against all four types of canine intestinal worms. If you buy
deworming medications that are made and packaged specifically for dogs, you will be paying a fortune
for them. After reading this article and seeing how often you need to treat your Beagle(s) for worms, I
think you may want to follow my lead.
Safe-Guard 10% Suspension (Fenbendazole)
Instead of buying and using only dog/puppy dewormers, I use the Safe-Guard 10% suspension
horse/cattle dewormer. I use this for all Beagles that are at least 2 weeks old. This liquid dewormer
comes in a 1000 ml bottle and contains 100 mg per ml of the active ingredient which is Fenbendazole.
This is much cheaper to buy on a yearly basis than any other deworming product. You can purchase this
huge bottle for only $104.95 (accurate price as of 04/20/2008) from Lambert Vet Supply by simply
clicking on the photo to the left of this paragraph. It is about 100 times cheaper than any other dog/puppy
dewormers made. Also, please note that several of the commercial dog/puppy dewormers are only
effective against two or three of the different types of canine intestinal worms; therefore, you would be
forced to buy two or three different kinds of dewormers, yet the Safe-Guard 10% suspension
horse/cattle dewormer is effective against all four types. (NOTE: Lambert Vet Supply is not a sponsor of
BEAGLES UNLIMITED and we do not make a cent by referring them to you. They do have the absolute
lowest prices available to help all of us keep our Beagles in great health while we save hundreds of
dollars each and every year. Just think about it, no need to buy the very expensive, canine dewormers to
proactively keep worms out of all your Beagles.
The recommended dosage of this exact product and strength is 1 ml (which contains 100 mg active
ingredient) per 5 lbs of Beagle bodyweight. For example, a 25 lb Beagle would receive 5 ml per day for a
3 day period (total 3-day treatment consists of 15 ml). With a 1000 ml bottle you have enough dewormer
to treat a kennel full of Beagles on a bi-monthly treatment program for a very long time. For example, this
one bottle of dewormer will treat sixty-six (66) Beagles ( avg. 25lb dogs) for a full three-day treatment.
As long as all pups are eating and equally active, I deworm each litter at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks. Adult
dogs are proactively treated for worms on the fifteenth of every other month. Fenbendazole is always
administered for 3-consecutive days rather than only one day, to be sure your puppies and dogs are
100% worm-free. The reason I deworm on the 15th of every other month is because I do a heartworm
preventative treatment on the 1st of every month. This way the two medicines are not given at the same
time.
Fenbendazole (Safe-Guard or Panacur) is one of the safest dewormers on the market. Fasting is not
required and it is safe during pregnancy and lactation. This is a list of the attributes of the Benzimidazole
(BZD) type dewormers such as Fenbendazole:
Actions: the antiparasitic action of Fenbendazole paste 10% is believed to be due to the inhibition of
energy metabolism in the parasite
Contraindications: no known contraindications observed, even when administered to young, sick, or
debilitated animals
Very wide margin of safety with regards to dose
If you have a kennel of dogs, then buying the Safe-Guard 10% suspension horse/cattle dewormer will
definitely save you a lot of money each year. This deworming treatment will stay effective for up to three
(3) years if kept refrigerated once opened. Don't wait until you see worms in your dog's feces before
treating them, but rather be proactive in deworming your dogs. You should deworm bitches before
breeding, during the last week of pregnancy, and each time you deworm your pups. Treat pups with the
appropriate dewormers described above at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Also, treat all of your Beagles
every other month. An example of a recommended deworming program is as follows: December 15th -
17th, February 15th - 17th, April 15th - 17th, June 15th - 17th, August 15th - 17th, and October 15th -
17th. Once again, the reason I deworm on the 15th through the 17th of every other month is because I
treat the dogs with Ivomec as a heartworm preventative on the 1st of every month. Also, don't forget that
this deworming treatment with Fenbendazole every other month has the added benefit of ridding and
preventing giardiasis in all of your hounds.
If you follow this deworming treatment schedule you will see a significant improvement in your dog's
appearance because you will be ridding your hound(s) of intestinal worms before any damage is done.
Remember, always keep your kennel(s) disinfected and your backyard clean of feces. Dispose of your
dog's feces as often as possible -- preferably daily. You will be happy because your hound(s) body and
your family's living environment will be worm-free.
What kind of dog food?
Please feed your puppy a high quality food.
How to grade your dog’s food:
Start with a grade of 100:
1) For every listing of “by-product”, subtract 10 points
2) For every non-specific animal source (”meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10
points
3) If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points
4) For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source, subtract 5 points
5) If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown
rice”, “brewerâs rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points
6) If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients,
subtract 3 points
7) If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points
8 ) If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points
9) If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points
10) If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points
11) If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources),
subtract 2 points
12) If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points
13) If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isnât allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points
14) If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isnât allergic to beef), subtract 1 point
15) If it contains salt, subtract 1 point
Extra Credit:
1) If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points
2) If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points
3) If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points
4) If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points
5) If the food contains fruit, add 3 points
6) If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points
7) If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points
8 ) If the food contains barley, add 2 points
9) If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points
10) If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point
11) If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point
12) For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and
“chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “” as 2 different sources), add 1 point
13) If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point
14) If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point
94-100+ = A 86-93 = B 78-85 = C 70-77 = D <70 = F
Dog Food scores:
Alpo Prime Cuts / Score 81 C
Artemis Large/Medium Breed Puppy / Score 114 A+
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Authority Harvest Baked Less Active / Score 93 B
Beowulf Back to Basics / Score 101 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blackwood 3000 Lamb and Rice / Score 83 C
Blue Buffalo Chicken and Rice / Score 106 A+
Burns Chicken and Brown Rice / Score 107 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Diamond Performance / Score 85 C
Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Van Patten?s Natural Balance Venison and Brown Rice / Score 106 A+
Dick Van Patten’s Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
EaglePack Holistic / Score 102 A+
Eukanuba Adult / Score 81 C
Eukanuba Puppy / Score 79 C
Flint River Senior / Score 101 A+
Foundations / Score 106 A+
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 B
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Innova Large Breed Puppy / Score 122 A+
Kirkland Signature Chicken, Rice, and Vegetables / Score 110 A+
Member?s Mark Chicken and Rice / Score 84 C
Merrick Wilderness Blend / Score 127 A+
Merrick HomeStyle Blends / Average Score 125 A+
Merrick Beef N More / Score 125 A+
Nature?s Recipe / Score 100 A
Nature?s Recipe Healthy Skin Venison and Rice / Score 116 A+
Nature?s Variety Raw Instinct / Score 122 A+
Nutra Nuggets Super Premium Lamb Meal and Rice / Score 81 C
Nutrience Junior Medium Breed Puppy / Score 101 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Nutro Max Adult / Score 93 B
Nutro Natural Choice Lamb and Rice / Score 98 A
Nutro Natural Choice Large Breed Puppy / Score 87 B
Nutro Natural Choice Puppy Wheat Free / Score 86 B
Nutro Natural Choice Senior / Score 95 A
Nutro Ultra Adult / Score 104 A+
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Premium Edge Chicken, Rice and Vegetables Adult Dry / Score 109 A+
Pro Nature Puppy / Score 80 C
Pro Plan Sensitive Stomach / Score 94 A
Purina Benful / Score 17 F
Purina Dog / Score 62 F
Purina Come-n-Get It / Score 16 F
Purina One Large Breed Puppy / Score 62 F
Royal Canin Boxer / Score 103 A+
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Solid Gold / Score 99 A
Summit / Score 99 A
Timberwolf Organics Wild & Natural Dry / Score 120 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A
Crate Training
Crate training is one of the most efficient and effective ways to train a puppy or dog.
The single most important aspect of dog and puppy training is that you reward and praise your dog or
puppy each and every time she does the right thing. For example: praise her when she chews her own
toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with
your puppy or dog, the quicker and easier it will be to train her.
The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your dog will eliminate
in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the
chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
It is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your dog is house
trained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving
piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or
utility room that has water/stain resistant floors. Confinement is NOT crate training.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their
resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your
dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far
more important aspect of crate training.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released,
i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term
confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to
restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short
term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will
want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also
helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she
learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not
intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her
crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if
not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an
opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take
her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate
within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately
reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and
play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her
toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her
bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a
regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know
what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead
of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one
hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her
from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for
eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount
of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that
you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her
unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate
training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more
time to develop bladder and bowel control.
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